MULLEYAVALAI, Sri Lanka - Compared with the setup
Dr. Joseph Angelo has back in Bel Air, Md., the
medical office here was unimpressive, just a faded
lime-green picnic table of slatted wood and a few
small chairs on the bare concrete floor of a schoolroom.
There was no electricity to operate equipment,
and whatever diagnosis the internist made, there
would be only one or two medications available,
sometimes decades-old remedies no longer typically
used in the United States.
But for the people living in or anywhere near this
relief camp in northeastern Sri Lanka, this was
the best care within reach, and dozens of patients
waited in hopes of seeing the doctor.
Some of the medical complaints dated from long
before last month's tsunami; others were especially
cruel side effects of the disaster. Angelo and his
colleagues were seeing the pathology of poverty
as well as that of catastrophe.
There was the mother who brought in 2 1/2 -year-old
Thusanth, his belly bulging from probable hernias
that had gone undiagnosed for more than a year,
a condition that if left untreated could lead to
fatal complications.
There was 40-year-old Kunch, virtually catatonic
after losing her husband and her two grown sons,
her once-flowing long hair cropped short after getting
tangled in barbed wire during the sea surge.
And there was Regina Santhia, who lost three of
her four children in the tsunami and, three weeks
later, came to the clinic feeling strangely dizzy.
She left when she saw that dozens of people were
waiting to see Angelo, but she returned in the arms
of a priest less than an hour later, limp and frothing
at the mouth from a seizure.
Then there were 9-year-old Kusiyaniha and the other
children outside the doctor's office in the camp,
who now live in a school but cannot yet attend one.
Kusiyaniha's mother, killed by the tsunami, had
wanted her bright daughter to get a scholarship
and become a teacher, but the school won't take
her or many other children in this camp unless they
have shoes, socks, uniforms and exercise books -
a cost of about $40 per child - plus $10 tuition.
The sense of need
Nearly everyone's story at this relief camp added
to the sense of need in northeastern Sri Lanka,
an impoverished region ravaged by nearly 20 years
of civil war, then devastated by the tsunami.
Most of the bodies have been found, the worst injuries
have been treated and fears about deadly infectious
disease have passed.
Sri Lankan-born Angelo, 44, and a group of fellow
Tamil doctors and other volunteers from the International
Medical Health Organization, a nonprofit group dedicated
to advancing health care here, learned last week
how much more needs to be done.
"Now we have to treat the survivors and improve
the health care system so that they can come up
in life," Angelo said.
Countless volunteers, along with charities big
and small, descended on Sri Lanka's more accessible
southern disaster zones, but the north is harder
to reach, isolated by checkpoints that require permits
or cumbersome passport checks.
The recovery here is complicated by questions about
the notorious group that controls this area, the
Tamil Tigers, and the government that historically
discriminated against the Tamil people who predominate
here.
Arriving as a medical volunteer here inevitably
means cooperating in some way, even if indirectly,
with the Tigers, who are considered a terrorist
organization by the United States and other countries.
Angelo and other volunteers, many of them expatriate
Tamils, have converged here to help the people beyond
the checkpoints and the controversies, people without
means and struggling to recover.
Vignashvary, the mother of the boy with the hernia
condition, had taken Thusanth to a local doctor
once before but had been told there was nothing
to worry about. Angelo recommended surgery.
"I'm happy that he came, and I feel comfort
that the problem will be solved," said Vignashvary,
who, like most Sri Lankan Tamils, has one name.
Kunch had come to the clinic when she noticed a
Tamil volunteer counselor from Britain whom she
had seen the day before.
She spoke one sentence to the counselor, Nira Ravindran:
"I have a fever and I haven't been given anything."
Kunch didn't speak again that morning; children
looked on bewildered while Ravindran tried to communicate
with her.
"You can talk to her for two hours and maybe
get a sentence out of her. She's going to need years
of therapy," said Ravindran, who came to the
northeast this month with her dermatologist husband.
"Really, it's beyond my capabilities, but since
they don't have specialists here who can deal, anything
is better than nothing."
Angelo recommended a brain scan for the patient
with the seizure, 25-year-old Santhia, who had suffered
another seizure about six months before.
The scan will be free under the government's nationalized
health program, but she will need the help of the
Red Cross or another agency to make the three-hour-plus
journey to a hospital that has the necessary equipment.
This makeshift clinic, visited by volunteer doctors
about twice a week, is in more than one way a hundred
miles from a modern hospital.
'19th-century care'
"It's like 19th-century medical care. It's
so primitive. They deal with one or two medicines
for each condition," Angelo said.
To treat an elderly woman's asthma attack, Angelo
could have used a nebulizer machine that he had
brought along, but there was no electricity to run
it; the camp gets power only in the evenings. "What
can we do? We have to work with the minimum that
we have," he said.
Santhia, like so many other relatives of the 38,000
people killed here by the tsunami, needs more help
than modern medicine can provide. The day before
her seizure, with her husband hospitalized for blurred
vision, she had searched in other villages for her
three lost children but had given up hope.
Her surviving daughter, 8, has not accepted that
her two brothers and sister are dead, but she asked
her mother to put away a family picture because
she was upset by the sight of her siblings. Now,
the girl is with Santhia's sister, partly because
Santhia is disturbed by the sight of her only remaining
child.
"I can't bear the pain of feeding just one
child when just a few weeks ago I was feeding four
children," she said in the camp clinic. Sitting
by her side trying to console her was Andrea L.
Warnick, a nurse from Canada who received a master's
degree in the sociology and psychology of death
last year from Hood College in Frederick.
'The world knows'
Warnick urged her to keep her daughter with her
in the camp with other children who have lost parents,
to help her daughter grieve. She asked Santhia the
names of her dead children. Warnick then asked a
volunteer who was translating to tell Santhia this:
"Can you tell her the whole world knows about
the tsunami, and everybody feels horribly about
it?"
It was a message that Warnick and another volunteer,
Abigail L. Thomas of Baltimore, considered important
to deliver in a place that has so little contact
with the outside world.
"It seemed amazingly empowering to have aid
workers clearly from very far away," Thomas
said of her first day visiting the camp. "They
know they haven't been forgotten."
Warnick and Thomas, a graduate student in the international
health department at the Johns Hopkins University,
had come across the story of Angelo's medical partner,
Dr. S. Raguraj, and his determination to get relief
to the Tamils through the International Medical
Health Organization, which he heads.
Before New Year's Day, Warnick and Thomas, both
28, had signed up with IMHO to come to a place they
knew little about.
"People's religion or ethnicity should have
no bearing on whether people receive aid,"
Thomas said. "It's a humanitarian crisis. It's
human suffering."
That is an attitude that the Sri Lankan government,
controlled by the nation's majority Sinhalese population,
says it shares. How much attention the government
devotes to this area, and how closely the Tigers
choose to work with the government, will help determine
the population's future.
Officials in Colombo say that the northern and
eastern Tamil-majority districts - home to an estimated
2.6 million of Sri Lanka's 20 million people - have
received more, not less government aid than the
Sinhalese-dominated southern and western districts,
to compensate for the difficulties faced by nongovernmental
organizations trying to get here.
The government also says that its tsunami initiatives
- such as sending all kids back to school with clothes
and supplies by the end of this month, giving every
affected family about $50 in cash and building modern
housing for those displaced - will apply in the
Tiger-controlled territories as well, though negotiating
logistics with the Tigers will certainly cause delays.
Tamil skepticism
But for many Tamils, including expatriate Tamil
volunteers, little that the government says is taken
at face value.
Despite the government's very public efforts to
make amends with the Tamil people, there is too
long a history of discrimination and violence to
overcome in so short a time. Discriminatory laws
and murderous ethnic riots sanctioned by the government
helped spark a conflict that claimed more than 60,000
lives from 1983 until a cease-fire in 2002.
Hundreds of thousands of Tamils, including many
well-educated families who were the elite of Tamil
society, fled the country during the war for havens
in India, Australia, Canada, Britain and the United
States. A number of the expatriates returning as
volunteers, including Angelo and Raguraj, left when
the war started in 1983.
The Tamil homeland they returned to is the poorest
part of the country: its buildings and infrastructure
bombed out, many of its people condemned by isolation
to low-paying jobs, subsistence fishing and farming,
or unemployment.
About half a million of them are trapped by the
politics of the conflict, ruled by the Tigers but
dependent on the government for social services
such as free health care and education. One of the
results, obvious to Angelo and the others on their
visit, was that the quality of health care is far
below the standard elsewhere in the country.
At the flagship hospital in the heart of the Tiger-controlled
region, Kilinochchi, the crush of tsunami-related
injuries had passed by last week. Still, dozens
of patients lay outside on mats or concrete under
overhangs because the 125-bed hospital typically
houses 250 patients a day.
There are no specialists other than one gynecologist
- the Health Ministry in Colombo says it can't force
doctors to work here - so some of the patients have
to wait for help for days, until perhaps a Tiger-trained
specialist comes to take patients. More serious
cases are transferred to a better-equipped hospital
in government-controlled territory.
Money, not time
Medicines are so frequently short in stock and
the patients underfed that a government doctor at
the hospital, Prasath Brighton, told Angelo the
hospital would prefer that foreign doctors give
their money instead of their time. Money can buy
vital medicines and food, Brighton told him, while
short volunteering stints would not do much good.
The International Medical Health Organization has
shipped or, on this trip, brought with it as much
as $500,000 worth of medicines and medical equipment,
much of it donated by hospitals led by Johns Hopkins.
The IMHO also raised $50,000 shortly after the
tsunami, about half of it from Raguraj and Angelo's
patients in Bel Air, that it sent along with another
$50,000 to a Kilinochchi-based charity, the Centre
for Health Care. The group has paid for the construction
of three of the Centre's five village clinics, where
basic care is provided in part by Tiger medics and
nurses.
When charities send their money and volunteers
here, the issue of the Tigers confronts them.
For 19 years, the rebel Tigers fought a guerrilla
insurgency during which they became known for suicide
bombings and political killings. The Tigers also
have a long history of recruiting children as soldiers,
and this month UNICEF and Human Rights Watch reported
that the rebels have done so even in tsunami relief
camps.
The Tigers are in some way involved in every phase
of the tsunami relief and recovery in their territory,
and the money and aid flowing into locally run relief
organizations could at least indirectly bolster
them. Some expatriate Tamils volunteering here are
troubled by the long-term prospects of authoritarian
Tiger rule and by tales of their ruthlessness.
But given a choice between the rebel Tigers and
the government, Angelo and a number of the returning
Tamil expatriates choose the rebels. Angelo dismisses
the stories of child recruiting as government fabrications.
He rejects the terrorist label affixed to the group,
calling the Tigers, also known as the LTTE, a national
liberation movement.
"Anybody can clearly understand, LTTE has
a goal: freedom for the Tamils," Angelo said.
Twin passions
Angelo, a compact man with a mustache who is given
to showing his emotions, can speak as passionately
about the responsibility of doctors to help people
as he does about the Sri Lankan government's treatment
of his people. Those twin passions brought him here,
and they were never far from the surface.
He and some of the other expatriates believe the
local Tamils' whispers that the government has sent
spies into the territory under cover of tsunami
relief. He doesn't believe the government's claims
of sending significant aid to the north and east.
He is sure that the government resents the Tigers'
ability to lead a strong initial recovery from the
tsunami.
The rebel Tigers have a natural interest in obscuring
whatever role the government plays, deepening the
distrust of the people they rule in the government
they despise, just as the government has a natural
interest in boasting of its role. The foreign minister
of Norway, the country facilitating peace talks
during the cease-fire, arrived in Sri Lanka on Thursday
in an effort to help the two sides cooperate.
What Angelo was left to conclude for the moment
was that after years of discrimination, war, isolation,
an uneasy cease-fire and a tsunami, his people are
in desperate need.
"I still like Sinhalese people," Angelo
said. "But overall, I feel my country, Tamils,
are neglected. Give them at least one opportunity
- they can contribute a lot to the world."